Herefordshire – The “Hidden Gem” That’s Worth Discovering
Written by Martin Banks
The phrase “hidden gem” can be overused but, in the case of Herefordshire in the UK, it’s entirely apt.
Just an hour from the heart of South Wales, the cathedral city of Hereford was once an important military centre.
That was a few centuries ago but, today, Herefordshire is a real leader in other ways – for innovation, championing local products and the sheer friendliness of the locals.
Here’s a “Top Ten” of the reasons why the county is well worth discovering.
Start the day in style
As you’re in England, what better way to start any new day than by sampling some of the county’s best produce – including a full English breakfast, maybe?
There are a couple of spots well worth visiting to sample such delights, including the lovely Castle House Hotel in Hereford, where a wholesome breakfast offering is open to both guests and non-guests.
It also has an interesting Benelux connection, as it was once owned by Albert Heijn, the largest supermarket chain in the Netherlands.
Away from the county’s main city, you’ll find the terrific, multi-award-winning Lowe Farm B&B, set in the rolling Herefordshire countryside, which celebrates its 30th anniversary next year.
The place is lovingly overseen by Juliet Williams, a larger-than-life character who, commendably, serves up very tasty and healthy breakfasts sourced almost entirely from local products and producers.
Juliet, who is nearing 70 but is still full of energy and enthusiasm for what she does, has welcomed a staggering 27,000 guests since opening, including the Spanish ambassador to the UK and coachloads of Japanese tourists. Some 60 per cent have been repeat visitors, which is a clear sign of the quality of service she provides.
Juliet and hubby Clive also boast a minor Belgian link: the best man at their wedding was from Belgium. This bubbly character takes great pride in sourcing her products locally and cooking with healthy ingredients, some sourced from the same local butcher used by famous TV chef James Martin.
History in Hereford
2026 is the 1,350th anniversary of the Hereford diocese and the place oozes history.
One must-visit attraction is Hereford Cathedral, dating from Saxon times, and its Mappa Mundi, one of the world’s unique medieval treasures. Constructed on a single sheet of vellum over 700 years ago, the map shows how the world was interpreted by scholars at that time.
Look closely and you’ll spot Gent on the map in the Europe section, curiously located in the bottom left of the world.
Close by is the equally wonderful Chained Library, home to some 229 medieval manuscripts and more than 1,200 early printed books. It is the largest library of its kind to survive with all its chains, rods and locks intact.
This magnificent cathedral is also home to fantastic architecture, a mighty Willis organ, stained glass – including a stunning tribute to the UK’s SAS, which is based locally – and artwork. It is all brought to life by a 400-strong team of volunteers, all of whom are very passionate about what they do.
A short walk away takes you to Hereford’s historic Town Hall, “home” to the current Lady Mayor – a rarity in itself, as there have only been seven in the city’s entire history.
Here – and tours are available – you can learn all about Hereford’s rich history and be reminded that its castle was once second only in size to Windsor.
The city boasts another proud record: along with the City of London, it has never been defeated in battle. The local SAS people will be proud of that.
There’s also yet another historical connection to Belgium. In the council chamber of this striking Edwardian Baroque building, where the mayor presides over council meetings, the Belgian link is commemorated by an unusual framed Union Jack flag mounted high above one of the doors, uniquely featuring a central shield with a French inscription.
The inscription reads: “Expression of our gratitude to our benefactors Mr & Mrs GB Greenland and members of the Committee – Belgian refugees in Hereford, Nov 9th 1915.”
Following the German invasion of Belgium in August 1914, roughly 250,000 Belgian refugees fled to Britain.
Hereford City Council holds the distinct honour of being the very first British city to officially step forward and offer hospitality and sanctuary to these displaced families.
On November 9, 1915, the Belgian refugees living in Hereford presented a beautiful silk flag to the Mayor, G.B. Greenland, as a permanent token of friendship and “immense gratitude” for the local community’s safe housing and ongoing kindness.
You might like to take one of the enthralling tours of the Town Hall, which are overseen by a very entertaining Scotsman called John Marshall, the Mayor’s Officer.
He is responsible for looking after some serious silverware here, including the Civic Sword, which is no less than 349 years old, as well as mayoral robes, including one used at Queen Victoria’s coronation, and, of course, the mayoral golden chain, which dates from the 1800s.
There’s precious little that the very likeable John does not know about Hereford and its rich history. He, like so many others in the county, genuinely loves his job – so much so that he’ll happily extend his planned retirement to continue doing it.
Local artisans
Cider country
You can hardly talk about Herefordshire’s food and drink heritage without mentioning cider. The county is one of England’s great cider-producing regions, its rolling countryside dotted with orchards growing traditional varieties of cider apples.
Apple growing has been part of rural life here for centuries, and Herefordshire remains home to everything from small artisan producers using traditional methods to some of the biggest names in British cider. The county’s orchards are particularly beautiful in spring, when they burst into blossom, and again around harvest time when the apples are ready for pressing.
Perhaps the best-known name associated with the county is Hereford-based Bulmers, whose history stretches back to the 19th century. But visitors can also discover a thriving independent cider scene, with producers creating traditional still ciders, perries and more contemporary varieties. It’s another example of the strong connection between Herefordshire’s landscape, its farmers and the food and drink produced here.
If artisan cider is your thing, you won’t be disappointed. A short drive from the town centre, heading towards Ross on Wye, you’ll find a tiny pub called the Yew Tree Inn near to the orchards belonging to the artisan Ross Cider Company, where the family create a huge range of craft ciders and host a reknowned Cider Festival every year – but if you fancy sampling them at home, the pub boasts a small shop in the grounds where you will find a massive selection of their own ciders to buy (or drink in the pub!) along with a caravan site – perfect place for a drink, great food and a gentle stroll back to your safely pitched camper or caravan!
From Herefordshire potatoes to Chase spirits
Herefordshire has also made its mark on the premium spirits industry through Chase, a name that became internationally associated with vodka and gin produced from ingredients grown on the family farm.
The Chase story began with Herefordshire farmer William Chase, who established Chase Distillery at Rosemaund Farm after previously building the Tyrrells crisps business. The distillery became particularly well known for its field-to-bottle approach, initially turning potatoes grown on the farm into its premium vodka.
Gin followed, with Chase developing a range of spirits that helped put Herefordshire on the map for something rather different from its traditional cider. The brand grew well beyond its local roots and became internationally recognised before being acquired by drinks group Diageo in 2021.
Whisky production in a traditional cider county?
Rosemaund Farm Distillery has been brought back under family ownership in recent times – and now is the home of highly a regarded whisky.
Described as the largest little distillery in Herefordshire, the site, formerly the home of Chase Distillery and its vodka production, is a real hive of activity and has just marked its latest release, “The Director’s Cut”.
The sprawling site even boasts a touch of Hollywood glitz, as world-famous film director Guy Ritchie is involved here with his ‘Wild Kitchen/Wild Table’ concept – an outdoor cooking and eating tent where a full-blown meal can be enjoyed after a tour of what is a very impressive whisky-making operation.
Delicious Cheese
Criss-crossing some of the county’s marvellous, meandering country roads leads to another equally laudable local artisan: the Monkland cheese dairy, which was run for more than three decades by Mark and Karen Hindle.
They now operate the adjacent café, while Dean Storey, a former chef, owns the dairy. He makes the cheeses and runs tours.
While the French may be world-renowned for their cheeses, here’s proof – were it needed – that the Brits can do the job just as well.
Tours for the public give you the chance to witness up close how its delicious cheeses are made, partly using an impressive Dutch Gouda vat that can hold 1,000 litres of cow’s milk.
Symonds Yat
No visit to Herefordshire would be complete without taking in the spectacular scenery around Symonds Yat, one of the most beautiful spots in the Wye Valley. Perched high above a dramatic bend in the River Wye, Symonds Yat Rock offers magnificent views across the wooded valley and surrounding countryside, with walking trails providing plenty of opportunities to explore the area at a gentler pace, along with river walks at a lower level.
Wildlife lovers should keep an eye on the skies too, as peregrine falcons can be spotted around the cliffs, while down at river level visitors can enjoy everything from canoeing and kayaking to a leisurely riverside walk or a drink at one of the nearby pubs. Particularly impressive when the woodland turns shades of gold, orange and red, Symonds Yat is a wonderful reminder that some of Herefordshire’s greatest attractions have been created entirely by nature.
The Yard
Back in Hereford, the county’s entrepreneurial spirit is certainly alive and kicking at The Yard, a collective of small-scale eateries.
Overseeing things here are a couple of go-ahead brothers, Edwin and Dorian Kirk, who offer vital mentoring skills to would-be local start-ups.
Ed says: “We help people who are just starting out to build up their own business and become owners themselves. In a way, it is all about achieving their dreams just as me and Dorian have managed to do.”
After trekking around all morning, it’s a great place for a filling, very tasty but affordable light lunch – be it pizza, burger or steak – and a drink. There are some fab local ales available too.
As with so many places here, it is all about cutting food miles and “buying local”: much of the lovely food is sourced directly from local producers.
If you happen to visit in late October, the space transforms for Oktoberfest, complete with Bavarian beers and music.
Things to do
One of the reasons they call this county a hidden gem is its very welcoming local folk, including Jon Williams and Sarah Monk, who run Eastnor Pottery.
Having met at art school in Bath, the couple moved to “idyllic” Herefordshire, where they live and work on the Eastnor Castle estate, offering very enjoyable potter’s wheel experiences alongside making their own ceramics.
After having fun on Jon and Sarah’s potter’s wheel, you really must pop along to admire the wonderful Eastnor Castle, home of the Hervey-Bathurst family, with lavish interiors containing medieval armour, fine art – and another reminder of Belgium.
This comes in the shape of some impressive Belgian tapestries, including three Bruges tapestries in the Staircase Hall and more in the Gothic Dining Room.
James Hervey-Bathurst, the current owner, moved here with his family in 1989, but his family have been there since 1949 and have ancestral links to the original owners going back centuries.
He recalls: “We were presented with a wonderful but daunting challenge.”
That’s a reference to the rundown state of the property which has, over the years, happily been restored to its former glory.
Make sure you don’t leave without having a look in the grounds at something you’d not expect to see in rural England – a segment of the Berlin Wall.
The very affable and welcoming James bought the three-metre-high section of wall last year and had it shipped to the UK – all 2.6 tonnes of it.
He hopes its presence, close to the deer park – which is lovely for walks – reminds visitors, young and old, of how conflict can divide people and communities, a message as relevant today as ever.
Other possibilities
You need to allow time to fully experience and enjoy all the many things this county has to offer.
But, time and energy levels permitting, there’s lots more to keep you busy, occupied and entertained.
These include Black Mountain Adventure near Brecon, Canwood Gallery, a contemporary art space, and the great selection of farm shops that dot the landscape, including Oakchurch – just the place to stock up on some of that lovely local produce before heading home.
Eating out
You’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to sampling the quite wonderful local produce in this county, be it north, south, east or west.
In the south, at Woolhope, for instance, is The Crown, a terrific pub/restaurant run for some years by yet another friendly Herefordian, Annalisa Slocombe.
The eatery, recently and very tastefully refurbished, serves a great mix of pub classics, such as good old fish and chips, and offers some lovely local beers to wash down a very satisfying meal.
Located in a tiny village of an estimated 200 dwellings, the menu – like the pub – is constantly evolving and changes weekly. But, as Annalisa explains, favourites like steak remain “to avoid a customer revolt”.
From the end of this month, she hopes to have eight en-suite rooms available too.
Cricket lovers will feel at home here, as there’s plenty of cricket memorabilia on the walls, including a bat used at the England v New Zealand Test in 1999 and a quite wonderful collection of Wisden books dating from 1988.
Another fab place, this time back in Hereford, and also a real success story, is The Beefy Boys.
Hereford was the first to open in what has become a fast-growing chain – the latest is scheduled for Cambridge later this month – and it’s easy to see why.
The county is renowned worldwide for the quality of its beef and that, along with some great service, is one big reason why the burgers here are on another level to most other places. It’s worth noting that the meat is sourced from just one local farm.
The Beefy Boys story all started in Hereford and the venue has expanded in recent times to accommodate up to 250 people.
Assistant GM Kai says: “Even midweek it’s bustling here and we’re still growing.”
Not too far away, in an easterly direction, is L’Ecole des Amis, which serves refined French cuisine in a wonderfully restored old schoolhouse.
The two men at the helm of this highly popular restaurant are Cedric L’herbier, who hails from Le Touquet in France, and Bruce Havard.
Cedric, who has more than 40 years’ experience in the restaurant trade in both the UK and France, recalls how the rundown building was badly in need of “some TLC” when they came by it.
Some quick-fire restoration work – it was transformed in the space of just 12 months – has resulted in a lovely, informal place to enjoy top-class cuisine that Cedric describes as “unsophisticated and unpretentious”.
They change just a couple of dishes every few weeks and there’s also a brasserie-style lunch menu.
On the opening night, an estimated 80 per cent of the customers travelled from where Cedric used to work in another part of the county, about 18 miles away, and he and Bruce still command a loyal customer base.
It is mostly down to the fab fresh food, cooked with real care, and certainly makes one Frenchman gratified that he took the plunge for “one last adventure” in his working life.
Where to stay
If you enjoy peace and quiet – and a few animals for company – there’s one place for you here: Pudleston Court.
Nestled in 50 acres of beautiful private parkland, it’s hard to imagine that you are also just a few short kilometres from the busy town of Leominster.
This is home to seven holiday lets, five of which are original estate buildings, formerly used for everything from housing geese to a rifle range, and all wonderfully refurbished.
One, the delightful Meadow View, is a barn conversion that can sleep up to six and has its very own private pool. It boasts underfloor heating, three bedrooms, a log-burning stove and a delightful terrace.
Don’t be surprised if, on arrival, you are greeted by some curious “locals” – peacocks that are free to roam. You should also make the acquaintance of the charming young alpacas in a nearby field.
There’s also another link to the Heijn family, as they are former owners here. The current owner is a Swiss lady who fell in love with the property when she read an article about it in Country Life magazine.
She’d always dreamed of owning her own English castle – who hasn’t? – and this was her chance to do just that.
She has overseen a loving and carefully planned restoration that is still ongoing, with a future focus on expansion into the corporate market by hosting company stays, board meetings, training days and the like.
Approached via those unique meandering roads – where the only hold-up is likely to be due to cattle crossing – this is a genuine oasis of peace and tranquillity in an increasingly mad world.
Oh, and there’s yet another Belgian link: Rhi Baines, the Chief Operating Officer, has fond memories of Belgium, as she celebrated her 21st birthday in Brussels.
How to get there
It could not be easier for people travelling by car from mainland Europe, including Belgium. Once off the ferry or shuttle, it is motorway for much of the way to Herefordshire.
Once you’ve navigated the M25 around London, you can travel via the M40 and Gloucester or the M40 and Worcester. Beware that there is no motorway in the county, so allow a bit of extra time for getting around.
Summary
It all adds up to a great getaway, whatever time of year you choose to visit. Pay a visit and you can easily see why they call this pretty part of England a “hidden gem”.
One excellent way of finding out more about this creative county is through Eat Sleep Live Herefordshire, a leading independent destination marketing company.
It supports not only Herefordshire’s food and drink businesses, accommodation providers, activities, leisure venues, pursuits and events, but also promotes the county’s craftspeople, creatives and artisans.
Further information:
www.eatsleepliveherefordshire.co.uk
https://www.herefordcathedral.org/
https://www.pudlestoncourtltd.co.uk/
